Cognacs

Every cognac is a brandy, but not every brandy is a cognac. The term cognac is protected, and only grape-based spirits produced in the Cognac region of France can carry this name. Brandy made in the same way elsewhere cannot legally be called cognac.

The Cognac region and appellations

Since 1908, the Cognac region has been divided into six appellations, each defined by its soil and wine character:

• Grande Champagne
• Petite Champagne
• Borderies
• Fins Bois
• Bons Bois
• Bois Ordinaires

The most prestigious cognacs come from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne.

How cognac is made

The production of cognac is strictly regulated:

• it is double-distilled in copper pot stills,
• distillation must be completed by March 31 following the harvest,
• the clear distillate, about 70% ABV, is aged in oak barrels where it matures and softens,
• barrels give their best influence during the first 50 years of ageing.

After ageing, eaux-de-vie are blended – some cognacs contain over a hundred different vintages. This is where the mastery of the blender truly shines.

Cognac classifications by age

The designations are based on the youngest spirit in the blend. The system was introduced in 1865 by Maurice Hennessy and is still used today:

V.S. (Very Special) – minimum 2 years of ageing in oak.
V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) – minimum 4 years.
X.O. (Extra Old) – minimum 10 years.
X.X.O. (Extra Extra Old) – minimum 14 years.

Other traditional designations:

Napoleon – between VSOP and XO.
Extra – older and richer than XO.
Hors d’Age – exceptional cognacs with no upper age limit, often 30–100 years old.
Vintage – from a single year, unblended.

The taste of cognac

Cognac is a complex spirit whose flavour evolves with age:

• young VS are fruity and fresh, with bright grape notes,
• VSOP and Napoleon bring smoothness, vanilla and spice tones,
• XO, XXO and Hors d’Age offer deep complexity, with notes of nuts, oak, cocoa and tobacco.

It is best enjoyed at room temperature in tulip-shaped cognac glasses that enhance its aroma.